2016 - A Review of the Year

Hello everyone

I thought it would be a good idea to do a quick review of 2016 as I didn't join in #sewingtopfive  this year. 2016 has been an okay year but not that successful in sewing terms.  I started a new job in January 2016 which has gone really well, and initially I managed to find some time for sewing.

In April, I  spent a long weekend in Bath and visited the Fashion Museum which is well worth paying a visit.

I spent a gorgeous two weeks in France in August and I was full of plans to make a summer wardrobe but it never happened.

We had gorgeous weather while we were away and my family and I enjoyed strolls on the beach every evening. Here is one of the lovely sunsets...

I found it increasingly difficult to find time to sew in the second half of the year, and neglected the blog as life got pretty busy.

I also went to the Knitting & Stitching Show in both March and October and bought lots of nice goodies to add to my stash....

So what have I made this year? I did manage some sewing, and I did quite a bit of knitting though and managed to finish some WIPs.

My makes in 2016

Slouchy knitted hat - Sirdar 9184 (unblogged)
Shawl neck knitted waistcoat - Sirdar 9249
New Look 6262
Emery Dress
Sew Over It Betty Dress (unblogged)
Washi Dress - unfinished. I made this previously (see my post here) and had great success but this one just went wrong from start to finish, so is waiting to be recycled into something else. 

New Look 6483
Sylvie Dress
The Flame tunic - Sirdar 7188 (unblogged)

Cable socks
Oak Ribbed Socks (unblogged)

These were a Christmas gift for my sister and I finished them on Christmas Eve, just in the nick of time. 

As you can see less sewing happened this year than in previous years.

The make I'm most proud of is the Emery Dress.  I took my time over this pattern and learnt some new skills such as lining the bodice and setting in sleeves successfully. 

My most worn garment was New Look 6483.  Although this was a relatively simple pattern, I successfully altered the pattern to fit using a FBA.  I wore this a lot, and it is a super pattern that I will revisit.

My least worn garment was the Betty Dress. I love this pattern but I tried a full bust adjustment and I don't think it was very successful.  The straps fall down also and the circle skirt is not really my style.

I also need to add a hook and eye to the back to make this wearable as I inserted the zip rather too low.

My aims for 2017

1) To make myself a dedicated sewing area.  At the moment I do not have a dedicated area for sewing although I have plenty of space. I tend to sew on the dining room table which is in my back room, therefore I either have to get my machine out if I plan to sew or it sits there taking up lots of space, and the dining table is out of action. I am planning on purchasing a small desk to put either in this room or in my bedroom so my machines have a permanent home.

2) To sew more wardrobe basics.  I started this blog with the aim of making clothes to wear on an everyday basis and to be honest my wardrobe is looking pretty sparse at the moment. With the exception of New Look 6483, I only made dresses which apart from the Sylvie Dress didn't get that much wear.  I have to accept I cannot sew a completely homemade wardrobe as I simply don't have the time, but I can get smarter about what I make. I do need to invest in some basics like jeans and t-shirts but I will think about the gaps in my wardrobe and start making things that I need rather than pretty dresses. 

3) To try some new knitting techniques - I have been knitting for years but I'm keen to learn some new things. I have always been an avid knitter and I have really enjoyed knitting a lot this year, so you may see more knitting on this blog from now on.  The thing I like about knitting is that you can pick it up at any time and it is much more portable and social, as you can knit and watch telly with the rest of the family whereas sewing seems to be something I do when I am on my own. 

4) To improve my photography skills.  I would really like to improve the photographs that I take for this blog, and to be honest this is the most challenging aspect of blogging.  Not sure if I need to invest in a new camera or learn more about how to take photographs, so this is one to think about!  Any advice would be gratefully received.

5) To blog regularly! As I mentioned, I found it difficult to find time to blog in the second half of this year, and ended up neglecting the blog. I really enjoy reading other blogs and hope that other people like reading what I have to say too.  I hope to post a couple of times a month as a minimum, perhaps sharing more of my WIPs and posting about other things if I feel like it, not just my finished makes.

All that remains to say is thank you to anyone who has read my blog in the past year or left any comments for me. I love hearing from you so it would make my day if you left me a comment or two if you liked something I've made or have any helpful suggestions.

Wishing you all the best for 2017!

Catherine x

An Emery Dress... at last

At last I have got some photos to share with you of my latest make my Emery dress.  It's been a long time coming, it seemed to take forever to make this dress and then of course I had to get some half decent photos. Always an impossible task!

Overall I'm pretty pleased with my new dress although the bodice is a bit on the snug side. Despite making a muslin, I seem to have got this wrong. 

I made a size 8 based on my measurements (bust 36, waist 28, hips 38), but I think I need to size up next time by doing a full bust adjustment. Also the bust darts are a little too long and need shortening. 

I made the neck darts wider to deal with the gaping back neckline. The only other change I made to the pattern was that I shortened the waist slightly and I think I got this right. 

I'm really impressed with this pattern, the instructions were very good and if you got stuck, the sew-along on Christine Haynes' website is really thorough. I think an ambitious beginner could tackle this pattern with no problems. 

I chose to make the plain version, I did cut out a bow for the waist, but I decided that I liked it best without the bow.  I would like to make a long-sleeved version for winter I think. 

Things I love about this dress

The pockets
The full gathered skirt
The vintage style
The material - I bought this in John Lewis, and it was a little pricey but I think it was a good buy

I'm also pretty pleased with my invisible zip.

The bodice is lined with a cotton voile as I though lining with the main dress fabric would be too heavy. I bought the voile from Favourite Fabrics on ebay and they seem a good seller, so I will be checking what else they have on offer!  I'm pretty pleased with the lining and also my set in sleeves.

All in all the Emery dress is a great pattern and I can see why it is so popular.  I will definitely be making it again, but I think I will start again with the bodice as this one is just a bit too snug for comfortable every day wear! Luckily I traced the pattern so I still have the original pattern intact.

While making this dress I also realized that although I love dresses and I wear them a lot, I don't have a lot of hand-made everyday items so I am going to concentrate on stitching some up for my summer wardrobe.  Also much as I love dresses they can be very time-consuming...

Which do you prefer to sew, simple everyday items that sew up quickly or more time-consuming projects? 

Catherine x

Setting in sleeves. How do you do it?

To be honest I have always had difficulty setting in sleeves. Often I catch the garment in the seam, and I always seem to have some little puckers in the sleeve head no matter how hard I try. The result is much frustration and lots of unpicking!

The method I've always used, involves sewing two rows of long ease stitching and pulling up to fit, then trying to smooth out the gathers to fit, and then pinning and machining sleeve side up.

Having failed to set the sleeve in successfully on my latest make, the Emery dress despite the following the excellent instructions on Christine Haynes' sewalong, I thought I'd see if there were any other methods that might work better for me.

Anyway after a quick Internet search. I found this post on Craftsy for a method that involves pinning only! I won't go into too much detail as the blog post on Craftsy is really thorough, but I thought it was worth sharing. 

The key thing to learn from this is that strategic pinning can replace using ease stitches.  The pins should be placed so that they straddle the stitching channel. It also helps to hand baste the sleeve first.  While this may seem extra work, if you are going to have to spend time unpicking your sleeve when it goes wrong, it seems like time well spent to me. Stitching the other way up, with the garment facing upwards, rather than the sleeve as normally advised, allows the feed dogs to help ease the sleeve into place.

One extra thing that I have decided to do from now in is mark the stitching line in with chalk pencil as I don't think previously that my stitching line was very accurate.

The basics steps are as follows

1.Stitching line marked with chalk pencil

2. Key points pinned first - notches, underarm seam, ease points and shoulder point

3. Then use lots of pins to ease the sleeve head in

4. The seam can then hand-basted and pins can be removed

5. Finally the seam is machine sewn with the garment facing, using the feed dogs to help ease the sleeve in. 

If you look closely you can see that I had to unpick the sleeve twice before trying this method!

6. The result is a sleeve that are set in properly with no little puckers or gathers. 

The good news my Emery dress is nearly complete and I will have a finished make to share with you soon.

Have you tried this method? I am converted. 

Catherine x

Emery dress - I Made A Muslin

So I thought I'd update you with my progress so far with the Emery Dress.

Progress has admittedly been slow on sewing this dress as I have been doing a lot of reading in my spare time. I recently got addicted to the novels of Robin Hobb and have been working my way through them. Her books are amazing, if you enjoy fantasy novels I would definitely recommend reading them.

On other news, I am still following my diet and I have lost just over a stone in total now.  Still about half a stone to go but really pleased with myself.  I got a fitbit for my birthday last week too so I am finding it really interesting to see how active I am (or not as the case maybe).

Anyway, I decided to make a muslin for this dress as I have learnt from experience that this is a very important step not to skip if you want to have a wearable dress.

The material I am going to use for this dress was more expensive than I would normally buy, as I bought in John Lewis, and I really didn't want to spoil it. There is a sew-along on  Christine Haynes's website, and she also advocates making a muslin. I include a link to her blog post if you are interested.

This time I thought I would try making the whole thing, including setting in the sleeves and adding a zip so that I could get a proper idea of fit. It was a surprisingly fast process.

The muslin is made from an old duvet cover.  I cut a straight size 8 based on my measurements (36 bust).  This not a UK size 8 by the way, I think Christine has her own sizing or maybe it's an American size?

So what is the verdict? The fit is pretty good actually.  The bust darts seem to be in the right place and I don't need to do a FBA.   I am going to shorten the waist slightly as it the bodice is not quite hitting my natural waist, although I'm nervous about doing this as I don't want to shorten it too much! The only other change I need to make is sort out the dreaded back neck gape which I always seem to suffer from. Having searched the internet there seems to be loads of different ways to tackle this but as this dress already has neck darts, I am simply going to deepen them. This post here explains more about adding neck darts.

If you suffer from this problem too, check out this tutorial by By Hand London or this one by Lauren Guthrie as these look like useful methods too.

I will make my changes to my paper pattern and then hopefully cut out this weekend, so sewing can begin!

So do you always make a muslin or do you just go for it? I'd love to know.

Catherine x

A little update

Hello folks, thought it was time for a little update.  I started my new job on 4th January and really like it so far.  Have had little time for sewing, and have been curling up on the sofa most evenings getting on with a little knitting!

First of all, I have finished my slouchy pull on hat that I posted about here. Need to get a photo taken off it though.

Also on the needles is a plain sweater in this variegated yarn that I bought at the Knitting and Stitching Show last year. I started this a couple of weeks ago.

The pattern is for a plain sweater, as I wanted something that would show of the lovely colours in the yarn and also that I could knit in front of the TV without having to concentrate on fancy stitch-work!

The yarn is called Marble DK from James C Brett which is not a company that I had heard of before. It knits up really well though. The pattern I'm using is Sirdar 9133.

I'm also using my Knitpro interchangeable needles that I got for Christmas.  These are gorgeous and a real treat to knit with.

Also on the needles is a cable sweater that I began in March last year, yarn also purchased at the Knitting and Stitching Show. I have knit the back and sleeves and now just got the front to finish. The front cable pattern is quite complicated and definitely one that needs concentrating on, so making slow progress with this one!

The yarn is Aztec Aran by James C Brett and the pattern is Sirdar 7188.

I definitely need this little great gadget to help me keep count! I got it a few years ago and it's been very useful.

I have bought some new sock yarn which is a lovely variegated Regia yarn, which is my go-to yarn for socks.

I got this free sock pattern with Simply Knitting magazine recently and think that these will be fun to make.

Finally I have finished this shawl neck waistcoat knitted in Sirdar Click DK.  The pattern is Sirdar 9249. All that I have to do now is sew a few ends in, add some buttons and block!

I do intend to do some sewing soon! I have cut out another trusty New Look 6262 and plan to get on with sewing it this week. I've made this three times now, so this will be dress number four!

The material was from John Lewis and was a bit pricey but the quality is gorgeous.

I have also purchased the Emery dress pattern as although this is very similar to New Look 6262, I really like the long sleeves and the collar. I have been keen to make this pattern as I've seen so many versions of this and I would also like to compare to my tried and tested New Look 6262 to see how the fit compares!

I'm definitely going to make a muslin of the bodice first and I've got some lovely fabric lined up for this one too.

I'll let you know how I get on with the Emery dress.

x